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Thread: Slow Mo Drip

  1. #1

    Default Slow Mo Drip

    Here is my effort of a slow Mo close up of a drip, I know it's dark.

    Last edited by Midnight Blue; 06-17-2011 at 09:01 AM.

  2. #2


    Now, if each drip is exactly the same (given the same fluid, height and drop size, temperature and pressure etc), then filming the drop many times could provide all the frames neeed to emulate a high speed camera. Then it only requires a clever way to handle the editing required.

  3. #3


    If only life was that simple. If you look at the red drip it is totally different to the green drip. I was creating the drips manually from a syringe even though it was clipped to a stand the movement of the syringe was enough to make the drips go all over the place. I plan to do this again with the knowledge I have now got, with better lighting etc...

    I shot this at 1080-50i but forgot to set a high shutter speed which I think might have helped. I wasn't going to post this first effort but thought I'd ask what people thought the best technique would be to shoot it. I found that it's best to use a reflector at the back of the shot rather than have a direct back light, for one thing the light reflects in the water.

    Any ideas guys.

  4. #4


    My physics may be wrong, but I think:
    The difference between the red and greed drips arises because their sizes are different, or that they are exit the syringe at different pressures (and thus speed of impact with the water). After leaving the syringe, if the water were to travel down something like an old fashioned pipe cleaner; then each drop should look more similar; as the drop will be unaffected by the pressure on the syringe and the drip will only occur when the surface tension at the end of the pipe cleaner is less than the downwards effect of gravity. I might also think that if the drip (and the water it falls into) contained a few drops of an oily substance (e.g cooking oil), then perhaps the drops might be even more similar each time.

    My knowledge of lighting is equally limited! But I think:
    There is alot of contrast and some of the reflections appear to be over exposed. The highlights appear as tiny white areas. Is this a case where a 'contrast' reduction filter would be useful? The problem is that the drip need to reflect some light and also be semitransparent whilst distorting the image behind it (like a lens).
    Yes. I am sure a faster shutter speed would look better. Although much of the action appears to look very sharp, the fastest parts of the movements look less sharp. I thought it was a focus problem until you mentioned the shutter speed.

    I look forward to seeing your next attempt.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Warsop, Nottinghamshire.
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    Interesting - a friend of mine did this for stills.. and I think she used a balloon with a tiny pinprick hole in the bottom to regulate the drips and keep them all similar... I'll check and let you know - impressive results in the video though...

    imageriez photo gallery - Water Droplets - a photo gallery powered by Photobox

  6. #6


    I've see it done with a plastic bag that has a pin prick in it which is good for stills but I wanted the drip to come out slowly so the water is perfectly flat before the drip so you don't realise it's water until the drip comes.

    I don't see any flaws in your reasoning Tim. I know I'll never shoot what I really want without a very high speed camera so I have to use what ever tricks I can think of the compensate. There is a really good plug-in for FCP which is the best I've seen for slow-mo but I haven't seen anything like it for Vegas.

    I'll keep playing.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Warsop, Nottinghamshire.
    Blog Entries


    Yep - just checked with her - she used a sandwich bag with a hole in.

  8. #8


    Yep, it was a sandwich bag ...... Andy was right, with the tiniest hole in which works very well for stills.

    I'm new to this site and would just like to say watching this video that I would have liked to have see this slowed down even more and the frame rotated to include the full rise and fall of the drip.

    :0) Lisa

  9. #9


    So would I.

  10. #10


    I have realised there is a relatively way to 'easily' splice together frames from multiple clips.
    What was (or will be) the shutter speed used in the clip?
    If you can produce a clip with half a dozen identical drips (and removing the long wait for the water to settle), then I would be pleased to have a go at splitting the clip into separate frames, write a simple program to re-name the separate images for subsequent rebuilding into a single clip. The final clip would, of course, only contain 1 drop, but the frames would have come from different clips.

    In practice, the more drips there are, the smoother the motion, because there will be more clips to choose from. But 6 would be enough to demonstrate. And any such program I write would be freeware.
    Last edited by TimAndrews; 06-18-2011 at 01:40 AM.

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