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Thread: HDC-SD9 Documentary Help

  1. #1

    Default HDC-SD9 Documentary Help

    I am just breaking into the more heavy end of home video production and was inspired to film a documentary on a news event in Maine. Please help me I have 1 week to prepare!

    Here is the article:
    101-Year-Old Frank Knight Ends Battle to Save 240-Year-Old Elm Tree - Sphere News

    I borrowed a friends camcorder because its better than my Canon SD980. The camera I need help working with is a PANASONIC HDC-SD9.

    OK so the stupid questions begin...
    The difference between HA1920 HF1920 HX1920 and HE1440?
    24P Digital Cinema (on/off)?
    AGS?
    Zebra?
    Color Bar?
    MF Assist?
    Shooting Guide?

    Also.. there's an option to turn the OIS on or off. Is there any disadvantages to using it that there needs to be a switch? If its on a tripod will the quality be better if its off or something?

    Sorry for the stupid questions! Thanks!
    Why am I an editor? ...because I'm a bad filmer!
    ☮ ♫ ☾ ☆ ☼ ☯ ~ Live Long & Prosper

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    The difference between HA1920 HF1920 HX1920 and HE1440 is the 'quality' of the video. From left to right, the quality reduces, but the file sizes get smaller. That means you can get more video on to your memory stick. In reality it's very unlikely you'll notice any difference between the quality settings unless you've got a lot of fast moving action, e.g. sports etc.

    As for the other options. Turn off the 24p digital cinema, and don't worryt about the rest. Manual controls on these kinds of cameras are fiddly at best, and in many cases it's easier to go with with full auto. On that particular camera, the only time I've ever used a manual setting was to adjust the white balance in snow. I've tried to use the manual focus (using the MF assist), but it's simply useless.

    You might as well turn off stabilisation of you're using a tripod.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Peters View Post
    The difference between HA1920 HF1920 HX1920 and HE1440 is the 'quality' of the video. From left to right, the quality reduces, but the file sizes get smaller. That means you can get more video on to your memory stick. In reality it's very unlikely you'll notice any difference between the quality settings unless you've got a lot of fast moving action, e.g. sports etc.

    As for the other options. Turn off the 24p digital cinema, and don't worryt about the rest. Manual controls on these kinds of cameras are fiddly at best, and in many cases it's easier to go with with full auto. On that particular camera, the only time I've ever used a manual setting was to adjust the white balance in snow. I've tried to use the manual focus (using the MF assist), but it's simply useless.

    You might as well turn off stabilisation of you're using a tripod.
    Yeah I figured that much, but default was HF and I wanted THE best. I'm guessing the fast moving sports is because of the frame rate? Any idea what HA HF HX & HE stand for though?

    About the stabilization, what if I have a really steady hand and I'm moving slowly? I'm used to using crappy picture cameras for video and moving real slow and then speeding it up in VegasPro9 to get a better frame rate. Seems to work hahaha.
    Last edited by PinkFloydEffect; 01-11-2010 at 08:48 AM.
    Why am I an editor? ...because I'm a bad filmer!
    ☮ ♫ ☾ ☆ ☼ ☯ ~ Live Long & Prosper

  4. #4
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    You definitely want image stabilisation OFF when using a tripod or anything where you are moving the camera very slowly OR you're filming things which move very slowly.

    The first instance is easy to grasp - if you perform a slow pan, the IS detects this as a camera movement and tries to compensate by holding the image in the same place for as long as it can. Eventually, as you pan further, it gives up and "jumps" to the new position. Thus you get a lot of "stepped" images in your film.

    What caught me out (but which is equally obvious once you've experienced it) is if your subject fills much of the screen and moves slowly, the IS will also see this as camera movement. The result of this is pretty much unnoticable unless you REALLY need the background to be stable. When I came across this problem I was making a film where I wanted my daughter to appear twice in the same frame - one half left, one half right. I locked down the camera on a tripod, but when I tried to match the two halves up, the background kept moving in one frame in relation to the other. Entirely because I left OIS switched on.
    Tim

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TimStannard View Post
    You definitely want image stabilisation OFF when using a tripod or anything where you are moving the camera very slowly OR you're filming things which move very slowly.

    The first instance is easy to grasp - if you perform a slow pan, the IS detects this as a camera movement and tries to compensate by holding the image in the same place for as long as it can. Eventually, as you pan further, it gives up and "jumps" to the new position. Thus you get a lot of "stepped" images in your film.

    What caught me out (but which is equally obvious once you've experienced it) is if your subject fills much of the screen and moves slowly, the IS will also see this as camera movement. The result of this is pretty much unnoticable unless you REALLY need the background to be stable. When I came across this problem I was making a film where I wanted my daughter to appear twice in the same frame - one half left, one half right. I locked down the camera on a tripod, but when I tried to match the two halves up, the background kept moving in one frame in relation to the other. Entirely because I left OIS switched on.
    Very good information here! I do allot of slow pans with non moving objects. Sorta like in the movies when they use a steady bucket truck or a rolling track. I just do it by hand and try to be steady. What about turning it on and off within the same clip?
    Why am I an editor? ...because I'm a bad filmer!
    ☮ ♫ ☾ ☆ ☼ ☯ ~ Live Long & Prosper

  6. #6

    Default

    Use the camera you know how to use.
    It isnt documentary - it's reportage.

    No one cares about the quality - content is king and after that your skills of direction / editing.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vertovian View Post
    Use the camera you know how to use.
    It isnt documentary - it's reportage.

    No one cares about the quality - content is king and after that your skills of direction / editing.
    It IS a documentary with the entire story from as far back as we know the tree, the old man interviewed, the property owner and neighbors interviewed along with the lady that named it and tree warden....

    I want crystal clear detail of the wood grain and bark texture. I'm training to be come an Arborist and theres a lot of Arborist counting on this film on another website. Its a northern US champion so I want it to be well documented for future reference.

    Now one of my cameras is 1280x720P 30fps and another is 1920x1080 24P (I'm guessing that means 24fps?)

    If I render my final product with transitions and such, in 1920x1080P and it upscales the 720P footage to 1080P will I loose quality or anything? Also the frame rates are different, so do I go with the lowest one and render the final in 24fps (down framing the 30fps shots to 24fps) or do I up frame it to my highest framed footage?

    At one point when I was making videos with just the 720p camera and still photos I rendered the final in 60fps thinking more frames would help the transition be smoother and if I made sure it was an even number 30fps original x2= 60fps it wouldn't hurt. Keeping in mind this was for YouTube

    And I'm not farmiliar with .MTS file extentions but playing them in WMP seems to look horrible for a nice camera.
    Last edited by PinkFloydEffect; 01-29-2010 at 08:39 PM.
    Why am I an editor? ...because I'm a bad filmer!
    ☮ ♫ ☾ ☆ ☼ ☯ ~ Live Long & Prosper

  8. #8

    Default

    If I want to make sure 4000x3000 photos don't letter box on a 1920x1080 time line I can crop them to 1920x1080 and its the same pixel/dimension format between photos and videos?
    Why am I an editor? ...because I'm a bad filmer!
    ☮ ♫ ☾ ☆ ☼ ☯ ~ Live Long & Prosper

  9. #9

    Question Upgrade

    Without starting a new thread I want to upgrade this little thing a bit, so a lense hood was a good idea off eBay that screws right into the camera BUT I was also planning on getting a wide angle lense, fish eye and zoom lense. But can you even use a hood on these lenses? I dont think the lenses will let me "screw on" a hood to them I dowt they have threads. This is the screw on hood:
    Lens Hood Screw Mount For Panasonic HDC-SD9,SX5,PV-GS83 - eBay (item 120513920459 end time Feb-03-10 13:10:21 PST)

    So now I'm looking at a rail system to combine this stuff huh? But if I AM then there's no point in buying this hood because I will need a rail mounted hood right? But should I get it anyway in case I want to use it without any lenses on it or will I always probably want at least some sort of after market lense on it such as a wide angle to improve any shot? Please help me!
    Last edited by PinkFloydEffect; 01-29-2010 at 08:51 PM.
    Why am I an editor? ...because I'm a bad filmer!
    ☮ ♫ ☾ ☆ ☼ ☯ ~ Live Long & Prosper

  10. #10

    Default

    You don't need a rail system for such a little hood. I would concentrate more about how to get the best out of the camera rather than adding bit's and bobs.

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