Very impressive, Grazie (shame about the interlacing on the final pic though). I wasn't aware such a shallow DoF could be achieved with a prosumer cam. Does the XM2 have a built in ND filter and if so did you need to add fmore to achieve this?

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Tim

To everyone thinking of spending 500 to 700 quid on a hdv hd super whizz bang thingy - dont - get an XM2 !

Seroiusly - what a great cmaera and a bragain used.

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From memory, the ND filter on the XM2 is either 'on' or 'off'.

I recently sold my XM2 as it was a tad on the big side for my current needs!

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Sorry guys, I wasn't ignoring you, but I have "other" work going into an exhibition and I needed to be with that side of my life for the past 3 days . .anyways . . back now .. .

Thanks Tim. I left the interlace in to confirm, to eagle eyed observant colleagues here that it WAS from an interlace source. I could have done a deinterlace delivery here.

Yeah, I kinda freak "VidHeads" out with this one. I came to video very late in llife and push the edge of stuff. Yes, Tim, it does - 0.9 . But, once I started to understand a bit more about this craft and worked with pros as a 2nd cameraman, I got further along in my still not comprehensive understanding of this craft. Now, if needed, I can add something in access of 2.4ND when I need to. Tim, read my method back up this thread.

Thanks for the appreciation

Grazie

I might also add that I do all this to maintain 1/50sec on my shutter.

Once i start going to 1/60 and beyond i get the expected staccato effect on movement and so on. My aim is always to get the best detail and digital info INTO the camera. That is my more primary task. To assist in this acquisition I use NDs and a Pola to beef up saturation and punch visual layers through semi- layers like windows, car glass, rivers/ponds and so on. It has also been known for me to use a tobacco Grad and pro-mists too! But don't tell everybody that . .. - Basically I SHOOT for the edit - that includes colour grading too. I'm always thinking of the narrative. My shots are numerous and frequent.

Of course I'd read your method, Grazie. I wouldn't dare miss one of your posts for the risk of missing an idea or technique I could plagiarize! I just wondered how much ND you required for those shots.

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Tim

LOL!!

Actiually it was a very VERY bright day in Kew Gardens and I was trialling my TLS Kestrel Matt box. It was sometime back now, but I thinlk I could have been using the 0.9 in-camera ND + a 0.9 Formatt + a 0.6ND too! But this did mean I cold keep the Iris fully open.

I'll post a pola shot next. - Fabo blue skies . . spot the edge of the Matt Box Tim? . .

Attached Images

	Kew Cactus House.jpg (311.5 KB, 7 views)
	Kew Mansion 2.jpg (254.5 KB, 7 views)

Going way OT (but very much in line with the subject of the forum) I stuck a ruler up against my screen and did a rough calculation. That bit of matte box accounts for approximately 1/336th of the picture, yet the effect it had on me was enormous. At first glance, before taking your comment into account (and before I'd consciously noticed the upper left), I got the impression the vid was shot from inside, looking out through a hatch or window. Obviously a moving image would not have had that effect, but I was quite interested how such a small part of the image - particularly a part right on the extremities - could have such a major effect on my interpretation.

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Tim

The newer adapters are better and it shoots right side up . But You need a HD monitor if you are using it with a HD camera. Critical focus in HD is very important. But in SD it is o.k.

You need a whole lot more of gears like a rod system , And because the adapter cuts off a bit of light. You have to light your scene a bit if it is indoors and when shooting out doors. You have to use filters to cut the light if you are using a fast lens. I have owed about 4 adapters so far and them all have their + & - points. Currently I'm using the Letus extreme. It pretty handy and is much cheaper then the P+S mini 35.

The only thing I hate about using adapters is finding a big enough case to fit them all in . The extra gears cost more then the adapters itself. So unless you are willing to fork out a lot more. just use your standard camera lens and zoom in all the way and make sure that the back ground is as far as possible. Or just simply use after effects in post.

You can also check out http://Cinevate.com. and also CineMek ® or italian adpter WDR35 - the italian 35mm adapter - Home

there is also a site that helps you build your own adapter and it sells you the part to do it. Daniel's GG-Holders for 35mm DOF .Adapters Or you can buy his adapter too

I'll skip Redrock because of the initial set up . You need to fine tine the back focus of that unit. and unless you have a studio monitor and focus charts. you might not get edge to edge sharpness. If you are U.K base, the Sgpro is a good one for you and at the moment they are using the flip unit from Letus . So you should check them out too.

Here is an example of a self made adapter:

Stage6 · a trysting place*-*Video and Download*·*fss328

You might not understand the short film but you can look at his other music videos.

The point is that you don't need alot of money to buy one if you know how to build one yourself. He build it with the Redrock DIY plans and use a SGpro Achromat. Also with an good lighting and good lens is needed.

The Redrock plans are quite similier to this one here:

DOF depth of field using 35mm lenses