Originally Posted by skribe 2. Use frame mode/progressive scan/non-interlace. They may have different names but essentially it means the camera is capturing a complete frame of video rather than interlacing two separate fields to produce a video frame. ie more film-like.
skribe |
> If the final medium is supposed to be video for display on a TV (as oposed to transferred to film) it is IMO best to stay in the interlaced mode. For display on PC monitors and LCD and such this might ot be such an important thing but it is also the factor that progressive scan camcorders are still expensive.
Originally Posted by skribe 3. Set your shutter speed to as close to 24fps as possible. 25 is better than 23 btw - not that I expect you will find a camera that does anything below 25fps =).
skribe |
The film "look" resulting from using 24fps is actually a more "jerky" image and again i'd recommend it only if it is for transfer to real film.
Originally Posted by skribe 7. Shallow depth of field. Using the upper end of your zoom range is the easiest although for most cases will require a tri/monopod. You can also fool around with the aperture (opening it to reduce the DoF) and then use neutral density filters or lights.
skribe |
It can be very tricky to achieve a really small DoF on a small CCD camcorder. On more expensive broadcast cameras you'll usually find larger CCD's (an i am not talking about pixels here.. physical size) but then the lenses needs to be larger and the price goes up, up and up...
DrGonzo